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ORTONBATH™ Wall Mounted Mirror, 24"x36" Arch Bathroom Mirror, Gold Vanity Wall Mirror w/ Metal Frame for Bedroom, Entryway, Living Room

This accent mirror features clean lines and a sleek silhouette for a modern addition to any wall of your home — whether it’s in your bathroom, over your bedroom vanity, or in your entryway. Rectangular in shape, this mirror has a thin, classic metal frame that wraps around it. This mirror also bounces the light around to make your room appear larger. Hangers on the back allow you to install it right when it arrives, either horizontally or vertically, depending on your preference and available space.

Features

  • The hanger on the back is sturdy to withhold this mirror.
  • Installing takes only a
    few minutes!
  • High quality and carefully handled

Product Details

  •  Framed: Yes
  •  Specification 60x80mm, 70x80mm, 80x80mm,90x80mm,100x80mm,
    110x80mm, 120x80mm,140x80mm.
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Pros and Cons of different materials of Bathtubs

There are many different materials can used for Bathtub Production. Today we are going to talk about four materials. 

Stone and wood

You can custom order a bathtub from a variety of natural stone materials, including granite, marble, onyx, travertine, basalt, sandstone and other materials. These tubs are extremely heavy, and require special structural framing to support their weight.

You can also custom-order a bathtub made from teak and certain other woods. As you’d imagine, with any of these true one-of-a-kind pieces you get an unbeatable “wow factor,” but it comes with a pretty high price tag.

And, in the case of wood and some of the stones, it’s going to require a lot of maintenance in order to retain the tub’s original beauty.

Traditional and contemporary stone bathtubs sculpted from monumental blocks of marble and granite. Internationally recognized stone bathtub.Natural stone bathtubs make a one-of-a-kind focal point around which you can plan and arrange everything else up to your tastes and desires. Stone bathtubs are mostly made to order. If clients of yours decide to have rock bathtub, they definitely want it to be unique and to fit their expectations.  

it’s very beautiful tub, two shortcomings, heavy and expensive 🙂 

Acrylic tubs

An acrylic bathtub is made from sheets of acrylic that are vacuum-formed into a tub shape. Since these are formed over a mould, they can be virtually any type of tub style or design, from drop-in tubs to freestanding tubs. The advantages are pretty much the same as for fiberglass, although acrylic tubs are more expensive.

Disadvantages are that the finish can scratch or discolor over time, although the better grades of tub finishes have now reduced that problem to a minimum. You also have a lot of choices of shapes, sizes and colors.

Acrylic is a good all-around choice, although it may lack a certain high-end appeal for some people. 

Variety of Shapes and Sizes

Because acrylic comes in sheets that are soft and malleable, acrylic bathtubs come in a large variety of shapes, sizes, and colors. Whether you are planning a small functional bathroom or a large spa-like setting, this wide assortment of tub styles can increase your options when designing a bathroom. 

Heat Retaining Properties

Acrylic bathtubs have a smooth nonporous surface. The surface is warm to the touch in normal temperatures and has very good heat-retaining properties, keeping water warm for a longer time than some other bathtub materials. For a homeowner who enjoys soaking in a hot tub, this can be an important advantage.

Scratches Easily

An acrylic surface is quite soft and can scratch easily. For this reason, abrasive cleaners should not be used on acrylic tubs. While the fact that the surface scratches easily is a disadvantage, it can also be an advantage because the scratches can often be polished out or filled with acrylic. Other types of tub surfaces chip instead of scratch, making them more difficult to repair than acrylic.

Not Rigid

The surface of an acrylic bathtub is relatively soft and not very rigid. Acrylic tubs can be reinforced with fiberglass, which will increase durability and rigidity but will also increase the price of the tub. Budget acrylic tubs have little reinforcement and can feel quite flimsy when installed, so it may be worth paying the extra cost to purchase one of higher quality products with fiberglass reinforcement.

Good point is very economical choice!

Cast Iron

If you’re looking for a material that will last, this would be it. Cast iron tubs are made by pouring molten iron into a mould of the desired shape, then smoothing it and coating it with a thick layer of enamel.

It’s probably the most durable tub available, and the finish is resistant to chipping, scratching and denting, as well as most

On the downside, these tubs are extremely heavy and require extra labour — and often extra floor reinforcement — to install. They’re also typically going to be among the most expensive tubs on the market.

Advantages

Cast iron bathtubs are extremely strong and durable which means that choosing one will last you for many years to come.
These baths have the ability to retain heat which will keep your bath water warm for long periods of time.
Cast iron is extremely difficult to damage and cannot be easily scratched, cracked or dented.
These bathtubs are available in a wide selection of designs including the stylish cast iron tubs and the single or double ended slipper tub which is spacious enough for two.
Cast iron is resistant to even the most abrasive cleaners and very easy to keep clean.
There is a wide selection of feet and claws available to finish off your tub with an option of either a chrome or white painted look.
With a cast iron tub you will be able to choose your own taps and mixers as well as be given the choice of where you’d like them and the plug to be placed in your tub.

Disadvantages

Although the fact that a cast iron tub is durable is seen as an advantage, it can also be seen as a disadvantage too as they can be extremely heavy.
Cast iron bathtubs are usually quite large in size which can make getting them into smaller bathrooms quite a tricky challenge.
Although cast iron can retain heat, it can often take a while to heat up, especially if your bath has been standing in a cold room.

Despite the fact that these tubs come with both advantages and disadvantages, overall the positives completely outweigh the negatives when compared to all the other types of tubs on the market.

And now for some less common material options:

Solid-surface materials

Solid-surface materials are relative newcomers to the bathtub market. They’re durable; they retain heat well; there are a variety of subtle, natural-looking colors available; and the finish can be repaired if needed. They can also be made in a variety of shapes and sizes. The material is a popular choice for bathtubs due to its luxuriously smooth texture and heat-retention properties; solid surface tub walls are warm to the touch so that you can bathe for longer without adding hot water.

On the downside, they’re somewhat heavy and relatively expensive, and may require a long lead time to get.

Pros of solid surface
Seamless, one-piece surface
Nonporous and hygienic; naturally resistant to stains, mildew, and mold
Easy to clean; low-maintenance
Easily repairable finish; retains a brand-new appearance for years
Smooth, velvety texture (some offer a high-gloss finish option and paintable exterior)
Various color options; consistent, non-fading color throughout
Large variety of shapes and sizes
Highly durable
Retains heat
Eco-friendly and recyclable
Cons of solid surface
Relatively expensive
May be heavy  

Okay, talk to me if you want some nice tubs, we have everything! Please dont forget to follow us on instagram. account: ortonbaths

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Bathroom Vanity Materials- Solid Wood, Plywood or MDF, which one is better?

MDF

  • Engineered wood composite similar to particle board, but denser and stronger
  • Compressed using tiny bits of wood, for a long time and at high temperatures
The benefits of MDF include price as well as the smooth surface. You won’t find knots or splinters around edges, which means it takes paint extremely well.  There are, however, drawbacks to using MDF.  If left unfinished and it gets wet, it will swell and disintegrate.  Also, there’s a chance it could release formaldehyde; a known carcinogen.   Painting the MDF, however, will seal it thus preventing any off-gassing.  So, if you’re looking for a painted vanity, this could be the way to go.

Plywood Materials

Plywood is made from veneers of wood glued into layers that form sheets. Like particle board, this product comes in a variety of thicknesses and qualities. On the low-end, soft woods, quick dry glues, and voids can be often found between the layers. This plywood is usually coated with a plastic that has a wood grain pattern applied because the wood they use isn’t very attractive and may not finish well. On the high end however, it is a very attractive wood and a truly solid choice (no pun intended) for your bathroom vanity.

It will rarely degrade. While you want to be cautious of water damage with all types of woods, high end plywood has a pretty high success rate in terms of holding up for a long period of time. Some people question a vanity that has plywood on the sides or back and wonder if solid wood would be a better choice. In reality, it’s not. The plywood will be more stable over the long run than solid wood. That is because the plywood will not expand or contract to moisture/humidity/temperature changes like solid wood does. If covered in veneer, it will be as stable as solid wood and will not chip/peel except under unusual circumstances. Plywood is an excellent choice for bathroom vanity materials.

Solid Wood

Just as it sounds, a solid wood vanity will last longer and withstand more harsh conditions of the bathroom. However, because it is a wood, it can expand and contract with extreme moistures. Furthermore, wood also has its own natural imperfections, such as knots, discolorations, and veining. These effects are neither positive nor negative. Rather, it boils down to your personal preference. What’s more, solid wood vanities are generally a little bit expensive. Expensive Luxury Beauty is its name.

Durability:

Solid hardwood is the most durable wood material and is made from woods like oak, cherry and maple. Solid wood has the tendency to shrink and expand as humidity changes. Expansion can cause cracks in the painted finish and also warping (in extreme cases).

Benefits:

Real wood is porous in nature so it will absorb water molecules in the air. However, I won’t dare say that real wood is a bad material. It’s been used for centuries and is still the preferred option by many contractors and builders. The strength and durability of solid wood is why many choose to go with wood bath vanities, so it really depends on what you find most important. By keeping humidity in control, most homeowners won’t have any problems with this beautiful material. It works best with a natural or stained finish, as opposed to paint.

So which one is better for your Bathroom?

Cost side

MDF wins in terms of cost hands down. MDF bathroom cabinets can be ideal if you’re remodelling the bathroom on a budget. . Solid wood or solid hardwood vanities cost more but are usually stronger and available in more details designs such as hand carvings seen in antique, country, and transitional bathroom cabinets. Of course, as with many things, you get what you pay for, and we would not recommend MDF cabinets if you intend to install a vanity that will last a long time. If you have the budget for it, we suggest opting for a solid hardwood vanity.

Why Your Vanity Needs to Be Built Out of Quality Materials?

Moisture and humidity can wreak havoc on a low-quality vanity made from particle board. These conditions can cause your vanity to crack, warp, and discolor over time.

Vanities must be strong enough to support the weight of a heavy countertop. Poor materials will lead to sagging and drooping in the center of your vanity where the countertop and basin are the heaviest. Over time, sagging will worsen. In most cases it won’t collapse completely but it will lead to cracks. The seal between your vanity and it’s top will likely break as well.

If you need professionals to handle with your vanities, find orton. 

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How to Install Shower Doors on Tile

Glass shower doors are a perfect completion to a tiled shower enclosure, offering a more attractive and effective water containment than a traditional shower curtain and rod. Glass doors can be clear or frosted for privacy, and there is a range of track finishes to match almost any bathroom décor.

Step 1

Clean the tile surface with a household cleaner to remove any film or dirt from the tub ledge and tile surfaces where the frame of the shower door is to be installed.

Step 2

Measure the inside width of the shower at the top surface of the tub ledge, from wall to wall. Mark this dimension on the bottom track piece of the shower door frame.

Step 3

Use a hacksaw to cut the bottom track piece to the length determined in Step 2. Use a metal file to smooth any rough edges from the cut. Also use the file to ease the lower corners at the ends, if necessary to allow the track piece to fit firmly flat on top of the tub ledge. Important: Make certain the deeper door channels are facing up before marking and making any modification to the track corners.

Step 4

Place the bottom track piece on top of the tub ledge, centring it on the flattest portion of the ledge surface. Measure the distance to the edge of the tub ledge to confirm the track is centred, then use masking tape to temporarily secure the track in position. Tape both ends, the middle and along the track as needed to hold it firmly in place. Use a soft-lead pencil to draw a line along the front edge of the track on the tub ledge.

Step 5

Position the right-side vertical frame piece against the right wall, slipping the lower end into the bottom track. Make certain the side-frame piece fits down fully into the bottom track. Use a metal file to ease the lower corners of the track slightly, if necessary to get a tight fit into the lower corner where the tub ledge and the wall tile meet.

Step 6

Use a level to hold the frame piece plumb. Mark the screw holes in the track on the tile surface with a pencil. Set the vertical track piece aside.

Step 7

Repeat Steps 5 and 6 for the left-side vertical side frame piece.

Step 8

Center-punch the screw hole locations marked in Steps 6 and 7, using a hammer and a nail set. It is only necessary to nick the tile glazing slightly as a pilot point for the holes.

Step 9

Use an electric drill with a 3/16-inch masonry or tile-cutting bit to slowly drill out each screw hole. Surface chipping can be minimized by placing a small piece of masking tape over the mark before drilling. After drilling the hole, use a hammer to tap plastic screw anchors into each hole.

Step 10

Remove the tape holding the bottom track in place. Turn the track over and run a 1/2-inch bead of silicone caulk in its front and rear channels. Keep the bead slightly higher than the depth of the channel flanges.

Step 11

Place the bottom track in position, aligned with the pencil lines marked in Step 4, and press it down flat on the tub ledge surface.

Step 12

Run a 1/2-inch bead of silicone caulk in the front and rear channels of the right-side vertical frame piece. Keep the bead slightly higher than the depth of the channel flanges.

Step 13

Position the right-side vertical frame piece in place, inserting the lower end into the bottom track. Make certain not to move the lower track out of alignment with the pencil lines you made on the tub ledge. Align the side track with the screw anchors installed in Step 9. Use a Phillips screwdriver to insert the screws provided with the track into each anchor location. Tighten them until the track is held firmly against the tile wall surface.

Step 14

Repeat Steps 12 and 13 for the left-side vertical door frame.

Step 15

Measure the inside width of the shower at the top of the two vertical door frame pieces, from wall to wall. Mark this dimension on the top door track piece of the shower door frame.

Step 16

Use a hacksaw to cut the top track piece to the length determined in Step 2. Use a metal file to smooth any rough edges from the cutting.

Step 17

Insert the top door track piece into position. Secure to the vertical side track pieces with the screws provided, inserting the screws through the predrilled holes at both ends of the track.

Step 18

Install the inside door by slipping the top of the door panel into the upper inside channel, then swinging the bottom of the door panel into the lower inside track. Position the inside door panel against the vertical wall frame nearest the showerhead. Install the plastic panel guide into the bottom track, just behind the inside vertical edge of the door. Secure the guide in place with the screws provided.

Step 19

Repeat Step 18 to install the outer shower door panel into the outer door channel, with the towel bar/handle facing outward.

Step 20

Install the door bumpers in the vertical track channels by snapping the bumper tabs into the predrilled holes in the channels.

Step 21

Apply a 1/8-inch bead of silicone caulk around the outside and inside of the door frame where the frame meets the tile and tub ledge surface. Allow the caulk to cure for a minimum of 24 hours before exposing it to moisture.

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Handmade Sink VS Drawn Sink

There are two kinds of kitchen sinks in the market, handmade sink and drawn sink.

What’s the difference between them?

  1. Thickness:

The thickness of handmade sink is around 1.2-1.5mm, this thickness of the stainless steel sheet can not be drawn in the mould on the stretch processing, otherwise it will break easily.

The thickness of drawn sink is impossible to exceed 0.8mm.

  1. Processing

The handmade sinks are made by laser welding, therefore, the requirements of the plate and equipment is higher. While the drawn sink is pressed in the mould, which means also easier.

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Pros and Cons of Acrylic Shower Base

When you install a shower, the first thing to contemplate on is the shower base which will serve as the foundation for the shower enclosure. Therefore it is very crucial to make the right choice. If you select a base that cracks or leaks down the road, the costs can be significant because it may require replacing the entire stall or it might have damage the floor below the base. None can claim that a particular type of shower base is better than the others, with each type having its own benefits, acrylic shower pans are near the top of the list in popularity. Here we discuss the pros and cons of acrylic shower bases.

Pros:

  • More cost effective than a tile, marble, or solid surface shower base
Since these units are manufactured in larger quantities they will usually cost less than custom tile showers or solid surface units.
  • Light & easy to work with
Most of these bases are set into a mortared base and are much lighter than marble or solid surface pans so they are easier to maneuver around a small bathroom.
  • One-piece: Low maintenance
To clean the acrylic shower base, you can just wipe the entire unit down with soap and water. In addition, there are no grout joints to have to deal with.
  • Non-porous: Waterproof
Unlike showers with tile flooring and mud pans, acrylic is non-porous, so you don’t have to be concerned about waterproofing the base because it’s already waterproofed.
  • Comfortable and warmer than tile
Acrylic stays warm to the touch, so you don’t have the shock of your feet touching a cold material when you enter the shower.
  • Anti-slip：More friendly to Oldman
Acrylic is more anti-slip than tiles. Also, It is not so hard as tiles even if oldman fall down.

Cons:

  • Not generally associated with high end projects

Most high end luxury homes/hotel will choose tile, stone or solid surface showers vs. acrylic to match the design.

  • Homeowners can’t create custom sizes

Among the most frequently mentioned disadvantages, inflexible sizing ranks high. Since these units are made in standard sizes if you need a custom size acrylic will not be the option for you. Also, because the pans are factory made, the drain locations cannot be varied. In remodeling projects it can be helpful — and save on plumbing costs — to use the old drain location. Since drain locations are pre-set with an acrylic base, you may have to move your existing plumbing.

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Toilet Bowl Shape: Round or Elongated?  

Round shaped toilet bowls have been on the market practically since toilets were invented. Elongated toilet bowls on the other hand are a more recent design. Why this design appear and become popular?  Below is the detailed information:

Round Toilet Bowl

Advantages:

  • Space-saving

This type of toilet bowl will usually measure anything from 25 to 28 inches from the wall to the front which means if you have a small bathroom, this type will help you save space, and your door won’t be bashing into it every-time you need the bathroom!

`·More affordable

You can expect to pay a lot less for a toilet with a round bowl simply because the design has been around for so long, and manufacturers need to use less technology in order to produce them.

  • More comfortable for child

If you’re potty training a child, a round bowl is the answer. Any parent; will know what a messy time this can be for you and your child so if you’re just making the transition from potty to toilet, a round bowl model could be the answer. Round bowl may be more comfortable than an elongated because you don’t need the extra space.

Disadvantages:

  • If you’re a large person, this type of toilet will probably not be too comfortable to sit on.
  • Some models may not have as powerful a flush as the elongated type because there is less space to play with in terms of technology.

Elongated Toilet Bowls

Advantages:

  • More comfortable for adult

Because of the shape, this toilet design is much more comfortable for adults as a whole as well as for people who are on the larger/taller size.

  • More Powerful flush

Models like this tend to be on the powerful side when it comes to the flush. There are two reasons for this, the larger water surface area and the space available so up to the minute technology can be used.

There is no need to worry if you do have children that are at the toilet training stage in life because manufacturers have designs so you can fit a seat over the top for them.

If style is something that “floats your boat”, an elongated toilet bowl will add a certain something to the overall look of your bathroom.

Disadvantage：

  • More expensive

Elongated toilet designs are more expensive than the traditional round shape, but that doesn’t mean you can’t find some great deals.

  • Take up more space

They will take up more space in your bathroom so bear this in mind if you have a smaller area to play with. (Actually, the difference in space is not huge, so unless you’re really tight on space, I’d recommend elongated.)

Hope above information is useful for you.

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Siphonic Vs Washdown Toilet, Which is better?

Deciding between a siphon or a wash down style can be a little confusing. So what is the difference between siphon and wash down toilets? 

What is Siphonic & Washdown

Wash Down: In a wash down action toilet, the water from the tank pours into the bowl and washes the material down the outlet. It is a “pushing” action only, and does not evacuate the bowl. Waste is simply “pushed” by free flowing water out of the trapway (usually 4” in diameter). These toilets have small (4’’ x 5’’) water surface areas in the bowls that are deep down in the bowl.

Siphonic : In a siphonic action toilet, the trapway fills with water during the flush which initiates a siphonic action which “pulls” material out of the bowl while the water entering the bowl from the tank through the jet and the rim “pushes” material out. This simultaneous pushing and pulling completely evacuates the bowl during every flush. Normally, the siphonic method employs a smaller outlet (usually 2” diameter).

Comparisons between these two types

  • BOWL SIZE

Siphonic flushing requires a bigger elongated bowl to fill water properly to flush compared to the compact version of the wash down. Most Europeans prefer the space-saving models whilst elongated versions are preferred in the United States, thus, US type toilets to siphonic and European toilets to wash down.

  • WATER SAVING

Wash down toilets is usually equipped with a DUAL FLUSHING mechanism that can accommodate 3 or 6 gallons per flush for solid or liquid waste. In contrast, siphonic toilets require 6 gallons or more to flush properly. Some countries even mandate 4.5 gallon flush capacity. (Dual flushing is not advisable for siphonic systems)

  • TRAPWAY

Siphonic has a greater tendency to clog due to the smaller trapway. Since wash down does not need this suction, it has a larger trapway but leaves less water on the bowl after flushing compared to the half full of the siphonic version. Splashing sometimes occurs when solid waste hits the water for wash down versions. This can be minimized by placing a piece of toilet paper over the water.

  • SPARE PARTS AND MAINTENANCE

Over time, because of the impurities of our water, silicon or rubber washers for both toilets need to be changed. (Water seepage will occur); A wash down toilet has top button flush, ABS plastic float valve and flush valve which rarely need replacement. Siphonic type usually comes with the side lever, ABS plastic float valve and flush valve. Some versions have a float ball and chain which need to be replaced more often. (Replacement parts are generally sold in major hardware stores.)

 

Cleaning

Depending on the holes around the bowl rim where the water comes out, some wash down toilets tend to have “water marks”. Europeans therefore prefer having a toilet brush as a part of their bath accessories over the plunger that is more for the clogging of a siphonic toilet. So make sure you buy a good quality siphonic toilet or you end up having the same maintenance issue of malls where they throwing tissue papers in the bowl is discouraged.

  • CHANGING TOILETS

Siphonic toilets usually require a 12’’ (305mm) outlet from the wall to the center. Wash down versions need only 8-12’’ (200-300mm). So check whether it is possible or not to make adjustments on existing units before buying your toilet. Nowadays, most customers want to change from siphonic to wash down. There will be a difference in outlet of 4’’ gap. You can either move the outlet which will also require you to redo the waterproofing or you can cover this gap with a 4’’ pre-wall. It is best to consult your contractor regarding these changes.

Below is the summary：

DetailsWashdownSiphonic
Water surface areaSmallLarge
TrapwayShort& WideLong& Narrow
Bowl BaseSpace-savingLonger
skid marksHigher possibilityLower possibility
Flush NoiseLoudQuiet
OdorMoreLess
Possibility to ClogLowHigher
MaintenanceEasyA little complicated
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Buying Guide: Kitchen Sink

Choosing the right kitchen sink is absolutely important, as it’s not something that you replace every year . But with such a wide variety of kitchen sink materials out there, and an even wider range of prices, which one is right for your kitchen? Hope this article helps.

Stainless Steel Sinks

More people buy stainless-steel kitchen sinks than any other type of sink. Stainless steel is a low-carbon steel which contains chromium at 10.5% or more by weight.  The addition of this chromium gives the steel its unique stainless, corrosion-resisting and enhanced mechanical properties.

Pros:

  • Very durable – corrosion and rust resistant and normally come with lengthy guarantees
  • Usually the cheapest of all the materials
  • Top mount, flush mount and undermount options available
  • Low maintenance

 

Cons:

  • Noisy – the thinner the steel the noisier the sink
  • water spots can become an issue
  • Sinks with thin stainless steel are more likely to scratch
  • Can get dented easily if something heavy is dropped in it
  • The best stainless sinks can cost more than other materials

Composite Sinks

When people talk about composite kitchen sinks, they’re usually talking about a granite or quartz composite. Composite sinks are made by combining crushed granite or quartz with a resin filler. The mixture varies depending on the product and manufacturer, but it’s usually around 80% stone and 20% resin.

Pros:

  • Extremely durable – most composite sinks are heat, stain and scratch resistant
  • Prices are coming down all the time
  • Anti-bacterial surface, resistant to scratches, chips and water stains which is also easy to clean
  • Lengthy guarantees
  • Huge range of colours, sizes and styles available

Cons:

  • Very hard surface that can damage things that are dropped on it
  • Require careful maintenance
  • Heavier than stainless steel so need a more sturdy worktop

Fireclay Ceramic Sinks

Fireclay sinks are made of clay and minerals and then fired at extreme temperatures, being made by moulding a ceramic clay into the shape of the sink and allowing it to dry at a high temperature for a period of up to 40 hours. Once the clay has dried, the porcelain enamel is applied and the sink is places in a tunnel kiln at an extremely high temperature (in some cases higher than 2000⁰F) for a period of around 20 hours.

Pros:

Easiest to maintain and keep clean
Extremely durable – heat and stain resistant
Effortlessly stylish
Withstands most household chemicals

Cons:

The most expensive option
Can chip (although can be repaired)
Very heavy and less choice available
Very hard surface that can damage things that are dropped on it