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This accent mirror features clean lines and a sleek silhouette for a modern addition to
any wall of your home — whether it's in your bathroom, over your bedroom vanity, or in
your entryway. Rectangular in shape, this mirror has a thin, classic metal frame that
wraps around it. This mirror also bounces the light around to make your room appear
larger. Hangers on the back allow you to install it right when it arrives, either horizontally
or vertically, depending on your preference and available space.
Features
The hanger on the back is sturdy to withhold this mirror. Installing takes only a
few minutes!
High quality and carefully handled
Product Details
Framed: Yes
Specification 60x80mm, 70x80mm, 80x80mm,90x80mm,100x80mm,
110x80mm, 120x80mm,140x80mm.
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There are many different materials can used for Bathtub Production. Today we are going to talk about four materials.
Stone and wood
You can custom order a bathtub from a variety of natural stone materials, including granite, marble, onyx, travertine, basalt, sandstone and other materials. These tubs are extremely heavy, and require special structural framing to support their weight.
You can also custom-order a bathtub made from teak and certain other woods. As you’d imagine, with any of these true one-of-a-kind pieces you get an unbeatable “wow factor,” but it comes with a pretty high price tag.
And, in the case of wood and some of the stones, it’s going to require a lot of maintenance in order to retain the tub’s original beauty.
Traditional and contemporary stone bathtubs sculpted from monumental blocks of marble and granite. Internationally recognized stone bathtub.Natural stone bathtubs make a one-of-a-kind focal point around which you can plan and arrange everything else up to your tastes and desires. Stone bathtubs are mostly made to order. If clients of yours decide to have rock bathtub, they definitely want it to be unique and to fit their expectations.
it’s very beautiful tub, two shortcomings, heavy and expensive 🙂
Acrylic tubs
An acrylic bathtub is made from sheets of acrylic that are vacuum-formed into a tub shape. Since these are formed over a mold, they can be virtually any type of tub style or design, from drop-in tubs to freestanding tubs. The advantages are pretty much the same as for fiberglass, although acrylic tubs are more expensive.
Disadvantages are that the finish can scratch or discolor over time, although the better grades of tub finishes have now reduced that problem to a minimum. You also have a lot of choices of shapes, sizes and colors.
Acrylic is a good all-around choice, although it may lack a certain high-end appeal for some people.
Because acrylic comes in sheets that are soft and malleable, acrylic bathtubs come in a large variety of shapes, sizes, and colors. Whether you are planning a small functional bathroom or a large spa-like setting, this wide assortment of tub styles can increase your options when designing a bathroom.
Acrylic bathtubs have a smooth nonporous surface. The surface is warm to the touch in normal temperatures and has very good heat-retaining properties, keeping water warm for a longer time than some other bathtub materials. For a homeowner who enjoys soaking in a hot tub, this can be an important advantage.
An acrylic surface is quite soft and can scratch easily. For this reason, abrasive cleaners should not be used on acrylic tubs. While the fact that the surface scratches easily is a disadvantage, it can also be an advantage because the scratches can often be polished out or filled with acrylic. Other types of tub surfaces chip instead of scratch, making them more difficult to repair than acrylic.
The surface of an acrylic bathtub is relatively soft and not very rigid. Acrylic tubs can be reinforced with fiberglass, which will increase durability and rigidity but will also increase the price of the tub. Budget acrylic tubs have little reinforcement and can feel quite flimsy when installed, so it may be worth paying the extra cost to purchase one of higher quality products with fiberglass reinforcement.
Good point is very economical choice!
Cast iron
If you’re looking for a material that will last, this would be it. Cast iron tubs are made by pouring molten iron into a mold of the desired shape, then smoothing it and coating it with a thick layer of enamel.
It’s probably the most durable tub available, and the finish is resistant to chipping, scratching and denting, as well as most
On the downside, these tubs are extremely heavy and require extra labor — and often extra floor reinforcement — to install. They’re also typically going to be among the most expensive tubs on the market.
Disadvantages
Despite the fact that these tubs come with both advantages and disadvantages, overall the positives completely outweigh the negatives when compared to all the other types of tubs on the market.
And now for some less common material options:
Solid-surface materials
Solid-surface materials are relative newcomers to the bathtub market. They’re durable; they retain heat well; there are a variety of subtle, natural-looking colors available; and the finish can be repaired if needed. They can also be made in a variety of shapes and sizes. The material is a popular choice for bathtubs due to its luxuriously smooth texture and heat-retention properties; solid surface tub walls are warm to the touch so that you can bathe for longer without adding hot water.
On the downside, they’re somewhat heavy and relatively expensive, and may require a long lead time to get.
Okay, talk to me if you want some nice tubs, we have everything! Please dont forget to follow us on instagram. account: ortonbaths
The benefits of MDF include price as well as the smooth surface. You won’t find knots or splinters around edges, which means it takes paint extremely well. There are, however, drawbacks to using MDF. If left unfinished and it gets wet, it will swell and disintegrate. Also, there’s a chance it could release formaldehyde; a known carcinogen. Painting the MDF, however, will seal it thus preventing any off-gassing. So, if you’re looking for a painted vanity, this could be the way to go.
Plywood is made from veneers of wood glued into layers that form sheets. Like particle board, this product comes in a variety of thicknesses and qualities. On the low-end, soft woods, quick dry glues, and voids can be often found between the layers. This plywood is usually coated with a plastic that has a wood grain pattern applied because the wood they use isn’t very attractive and may not finish well. On the high end however, it is a very attractive wood and a truly solid choice (no pun intended) for your bathroom vanity. It will rarely degrade. While you want to be cautious of water damage with all types of woods, high end plywood has a pretty high success rate in terms of holding up for a long period of time. Some people question a vanity that has plywood on the sides or back and wonder if solid wood would be a better choice. In reality, it’s not. The plywood will be more stable over the long run than solid wood. That is because the plywood will not expand or contract to moisture/humidity/temperature changes like solid wood does. If covered in veneer, it will be as stable as solid wood and will not chip/peel except under unusual circumstances. Plywood is an excellent choice for bathroom vanity materials.
Just as it sounds, a solid wood vanity will last longer and withstand more harsh conditions of the bathroom. However, because it is a wood, it can expand and contract with extreme moistures. Furthermore, wood also has its own natural imperfections, such as knots, discolorations, and veining. These effects are neither positive nor negative. Rather, it boils down to your personal preference. What’s more, solid wood vanities are generally a little bit expensive. Expensive Luxury Beauty is its name.
Solid hardwood is the most durable wood material and is made from woods like oak, cherry and maple. Solid wood has the tendency to shrink and expand as humidity changes. Expansion can cause cracks in the painted finish and also warping (in extreme cases).
Real wood is porous in nature so it will absorb water molecules in the air. However, I won’t dare say that real wood is a bad material. It’s been used for centuries and is still the preferred option by many contractors and builders. The strength and durability of solid wood is why many choose to go with wood bath vanities, so it really depends on what you find most important. By keeping humidity in control, most homeowners won’t have any problems with this beautiful material. It works best with a natural or stained finish, as opposed to paint.
SO WHICH ONE IS BETTER FOR YOUR BATHROOM?
MDF wins in terms of cost hands down. MDF bathroom cabinets can be ideal if you’re remodeling the bathroom on a budget. . Solid wood or solid hardwood vanities cost more but are usually stronger and available in more details designs such as hand carvings seen in antique, country, and transitional bathroom cabinets. Of course, as with many things, you get what you pay for, and we would not recommend MDF cabinets if you intend to install a vanity that will last a long time. If you have the budget for it, we suggest opting for a solid hardwood vanity.
Moisture and humidity can wreak havoc on a low-quality vanity made from particle board. These conditions can cause your vanity to crack, warp, and discolor over time.
Vanities must be strong enough to support the weight of a heavy countertop. Poor materials will lead to sagging and drooping in the center of your vanity where the countertop and basin are the heaviest. Over time, sagging will worsen. In most cases it won’t collapse completely but it will lead to cracks. The seal between your vanity and it’s top will likely break as well.
if you need professionals to handle with your vanities, find orton.
Glass shower doors are a perfect completion to a tiled shower enclosure, offering a more attractive and effective water containment than a traditional shower curtain and rod. Glass doors can be clear or frosted for privacy, and there is a range of track finishes to match almost any bathroom decor.
Step 1
Clean the tile surface with a household cleaner to remove any film or dirt from the tub ledge and tile surfaces where the frame of the shower door is to be installed.
Step 2
Measure the inside width of the shower at the top surface of the tub ledge, from wall to wall. Mark this dimension on the bottom track piece of the shower door frame.
Step 3
Use a hacksaw to cut the bottom track piece to the length determined in Step 2. Use a metal file to smooth any rough edges from the cut. Also use the file to ease the lower corners at the ends, if necessary to allow the track piece to fit firmly flat on top of the tub ledge. Important: Make certain the deeper door channels are facing up before marking and making any modification to the track corners.
Step 4
Place the bottom track piece on top of the tub ledge, centering it on the flattest portion of the ledge surface. Measure the distance to the edge of the tub ledge to confirm the track is centered, then use masking tape to temporarily secure the track in position. Tape both ends, the middle and along the track as needed to hold it firmly in place. Use a soft-lead pencil to draw a line along the front edge of the track on the tub ledge.
Step 5
Position the right-side vertical frame piece against the right wall, slipping the lower end into the bottom track. Make certain the side-frame piece fits down fully into the bottom track. Use a metal file to ease the lower corners of the track slightly, if necessary to get a tight fit into the lower corner where the tub ledge and the wall tile meet.
Step 6
Use a level to hold the frame piece plumb. Mark the screw holes in the track on the tile surface with a pencil. Set the vertical track piece aside.
Step 7
Repeat Steps 5 and 6 for the left-side vertical side frame piece.
Step 8
Center-punch the screw hole locations marked in Steps 6 and 7, using a hammer and a nail set. It is only necessary to nick the tile glazing slightly as a pilot point for the holes.
Step 9
Use an electric drill with a 3/16-inch masonry or tile-cutting bit to slowly drill out each screw hole. Surface chipping can be minimized by placing a small piece of masking tape over the mark before drilling. After drilling the hole, use a hammer to tap plastic screw anchors into each hole.
Step 10
Remove the tape holding the bottom track in place. Turn the track over and run a 1/2-inch bead of silicone caulk in its front and rear channels. Keep the bead slightly higher than the depth of the channel flanges.
Step 11
Place the bottom track in position, aligned with the pencil lines marked in Step 4, and press it down flat on the tub ledge surface.
Step 12
Run a 1/2-inch bead of silicone caulk in the front and rear channels of the right-side vertical frame piece. Keep the bead slightly higher than the depth of the channel flanges.
Step 13
Position the right-side vertical frame piece in place, inserting the lower end into the bottom track. Make certain not to move the lower track out of alignment with the pencil lines you made on the tub ledge. Align the side track with the screw anchors installed in Step 9. Use a Phillips screwdriver to insert the screws provided with the track into each anchor location. Tighten them until the track is held firmly against the tile wall surface.
Step 14
Repeat Steps 12 and 13 for the left-side vertical door frame.
Step 15
Measure the inside width of the shower at the top of the two vertical door frame pieces, from wall to wall. Mark this dimension on the top door track piece of the shower door frame.
Step 16
Use a hacksaw to cut the top track piece to the length determined in Step 2. Use a metal file to smooth any rough edges from the cutting.
Step 17
Insert the top door track piece into position. Secure to the vertical side track pieces with the screws provided, inserting the screws through the predrilled holes at both ends of the track.
Step 18
Install the inside door by slipping the top of the door panel into the upper inside channel, then swinging the bottom of the door panel into the lower inside track. Position the inside door panel against the vertical wall frame nearest the showerhead. Install the plastic panel guide into the bottom track, just behind the inside vertical edge of the door. Secure the guide in place with the screws provided.
Step 19
Repeat Step 18 to install the outer shower door panel into the outer door channel, with the towel bar/handle facing outward.
Step 20
Install the door bumpers in the vertical track channels by snapping the bumper tabs into the predrilled holes in the channels.
Step 21
Apply a 1/8-inch bead of silicone caulk around the outside and inside of the door frame where the frame meets the tile and tub ledge surface. Allow the caulk to cure for a minimum of 24 hours before exposing it to moisture.
There are two kinds of kitchen sinks in the market, handmade sink and drawn sink.
What’s the difference between them?
The thickness of handmade sink is around 1.2-1.5mm, this thickness of the stainless steel sheet can not be drawn in the mold on the stretch processing, otherwise it will break easily.
The thickness of drawn sink is impossible to exceed 0.8mm.
The handmade sinks are made by laser welding, therefore, the requirements of the plate and equipment is higher. While the drawn sink is pressed in the mold, which means also easier.
When you install a shower, the first thing to contemplate on is the shower base which will serve as the foundation for the shower enclosure. Therefore it is very crucial to make the right choice. If you select a base that cracks or leaks down the road, the costs can be significant because it may require replacing the entire stall or it might have damage the floor below the base. None can claim that a particular type of shower base is better than the others, with each type having its own benefits, acrylic shower pans are near the top of the list in popularity. Here we discuss the pros and cons of acrylic shower bases.
Pro:
Since these units are manufactured in larger quantities they will usually cost less than custom tile showers or solid surface units.
Most of these bases are set into a mortared base and are much lighter than marble or solid surface pans so they are easier to maneuver around a small bathroom.
To clean the acrylic shower base, you can just wipe the entire unit down with soap and water. In addition, there are no grout joints to have to deal with.
Unlike showers with tile flooring and mud pans, acrylic is non-porous, so you don’t have to be concerned about waterproofing the base because it’s already waterproofed.
Acrylic stays warm to the touch, so you don’t have the shock of your feet touching a cold material when you enter the shower.
Acrylic is more anti-slip than tiles. Also, It is not so hard as tiles even if oldman fall down.
Con:
Most high end luxury homes/hotel will choose tile, stone or solid surface showers vs. acrylic to match the design.
Among the most frequently mentioned disadvantages, inflexible sizing ranks high. Since these units are made in standard sizes if you need a custom size acrylic will not be the option for you. Also, because the pans are factory made, the drain locations cannot be varied. In remodeling projects it can be helpful — and save on plumbing costs — to use the old drain location. Since drain locations are pre-set with an acrylic base, you may have to move your existing plumbing.